Clinton, Fragolino, and Bacò: stories of forbidden wines. What kind of wine are you?

Sometimes we don't think about it, but even what we drink and how we drink it defines our style and our personal way of being. Sometimes it's what we drank on an occasion and how we drank it that sticks in people's memory, more than the occasion itself. This is having style. Leaving your mark.

We were talking about what kind of wine you are. Have you ever wondered? Maybe you're a beer drinker, not a wine drinker... but in any case, knowing which is your favorite, and why, knowing the various types and their characteristics means not being banal, having clear ideas, and not accepting things because one is not as good as another—not for those with class and style.

So, cultured folks, this doesn't mean becoming a sommelier, but knowing what you're drinking and whether it's the right time or paired appropriately with what you're eating, yes.

I invite you to discover and research. Which involves reading and pleasant tasting until you define what you like and what you don't. It's a short step to entering the world of suitable glasses, but we'll do that in another category of this blog. That of the home and its environment, which should, or will, be given the same style as yours.

In the meantime, I'll return to talk to you about wines. Special and curious wines with a slightly dark charm and a hint of Prohibition, which makes them fascinating.

A bit of history. Yes, Clinton, Fragolino (from Isabella grapes), and Bacò are hybrid grape varieties born in the United States in the 19th century. Originating from a cross between resistant American species and European varieties, they were imported to Europe to combat phylloxera. Today, they are very rare or prohibited commercially in the EU, but popular among connoisseurs.

Clinton (or Clinto): Originally from Iowa, it is a red grape hybrid that was once very popular in the Veneto region. It produces a red wine with an intense color, a fragrant aroma, and low alcohol content, often referred to as "grandparents' wine."

Fragolino (Isabella Grape): Made from Vitis labrusca, it is known for its unmistakable strawberry aroma. In Italy and the EU, the sale of Fragolino wine is prohibited because it is not made from Vitis vinifera.

Bacò (or Baco Noir): A hybrid originally from France but created from a cross with American varieties, it is known for its resilience and the production of intense red wines.

Although their sale is prohibited in the EU, they are often produced for family consumption and rural tradition, especially in Veneto and Friuli.

There are also "rebel" wines; have you ever heard of them?

The "rebel wines" par excellence are the Super Tuscans, created in the 1960s and 1970s in Tuscany to challenge the strict Chianti regulations, using international grape varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) and innovative techniques. Iconic examples include Sassicaia, Tignanello, Ornellaia, and Vigorello.

Here are the main groups of Italian "rebel wines":

Supertuscans: Tuscan wines of the highest quality, initially classified as simple "table wines" because they did not follow the DOC/DOCG rules, pioneers of the Italian winemaking revolution.

Forbidden Wines (American Hybrids): Grapes such as Clinton, Bacò, and Isabella (Strawberry Grape). They were popular for their disease resistance and low cost, later restricted or banned for market reasons, and are now being rediscovered as a rural heritage.

Natural/Triple A Wines: Producers who reject industrial winemaking, focusing on organic/biodynamic agriculture and spontaneous fermentations, such as Costadilà, Slavcek, and Cascina degli Ulivi.

"Rebel" Native Grape Varieties: Grapes such as Raboso Veneto, known for its pronounced acidity and endurance, vinified in unconventional ways.

These wines represent a rebellion against standardized rules, focusing on quality, terroir, and tradition.

We'll return to the world of alcohol, discussing the various styles in detail, to discover the one best suited to your taste, as well as the iconic drink you're after.

Be careful not to get drunk; that's really hard to do with style.

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